The Five Issues with Japanese Whisky, and The One Big Draw
/The beginner’s guide to Japanese whisky can be summarized with five big issues, and one big draw:
The menu at Sexy Fish, London, a late-night Japanese bar with one of the largest selection of Japanese whisky in the world.
Issue #1: It’s complicated. The Japanese whisky world is complicated. It’s very complicated. The legal definition of Japanese whisky is a lot more complex than the cultural expectations. But basically, to be called Japanese whisky, the whisky doesn’t need to be made in Japan. Trusting the producer is the first critical step. Buying a blend of Scotch and Japanese whisky at inflated Japanese whisky prices is possible.
Issue #2: It’s rare. Jim Murray is often credited for hyping up a well deserved hysteria around Japanese whisky. Most of the credit should really go to the malt maniacs. In truth, many whisky geeks enjoyed Japanese whisky far before Jim Murray announced it as his favourite. Now, the best of Japanese whisky is limited to a few markets that can afford to sell drams at extraordinary prices. High-priced cocktail bars in London, Singapore, and Manhattan will happily sell you a pour. Elsewhere, it’s a tough market.
The whisky that sent the Japanese industry into the stratosphere of demand — The Yamakazi Sherry Cask 2013
Issue #3: It’s expensive. Secondary prices for Japanese whisky are probably never worth paying. I love Japanese whisky. But it’s not life-changing. Traditional Japanese whisky has a similar taste profile to traditional single malts from Scotland. It’s great whisky, but there’s plenty of scotch that’s available with a similar flavour profile.
Issue #4: The Highball. This is a cocktail made from one part Japanese whisky, and three parts carbonated water (various options on both sides). It’s known as the cocktail in Japan. Whiskies specifically made for a Highball aren’t necessarily that great as sippers because they have enhanced (unbalanced) sweet and spicy notes (Hibiki Toki, I’m looking at you!). The issue is, the stuff that isn’t rare is probably best intended for a highball cocktail. If you’re intending to sip whisky, know that not all Japanese whisky is best served neat. As a fan of Highballa, there are lots of cheaper whisky options for the North American audience.
In the top three of best Japanese whisky I’ve had. It’s now worth over $6,000 US, and even at that price, it’s increasingly difficult to find.
Issue #5: Age statements are out. Most available Japanese whisky doesn’t come with an age statement. The ones that do, are incredibly expensive. If your an age statement purist, there won’t be many options for you unless you’re really willing to spend a lot of money (see Issue #3).
Not long after Jim Murray named a Japanese whisky the best in the world, this was the scene at Spirit of Toronto when they poured samples of it. Back then a bottle was worth $3,000. Today, a few ounces of it might go for a thousand dollars.
So what’s the draw? In North America we’re well exposed to Suntory and Nikka products, but there’s a lot more to Japanese whisky. It’s a country rich with whisky experience. They have legendary master distillers, closed legendary distilleries, distilleries re-opening, whiskies that aren’t technically whiskies, and everything else in-between. With (a lot) of money, and time, this is a rich category of the whisky world to explore.
The best way to get started are two books: David Broom’s The Way of Whisky, and Whisky Japan by Dominic Roskrow. If you know all about Scotch and American whisky, and are looking to rekindle your whisky curiosity, these are the best books to buy. I also have a few (literally, just a few) reviews for you to read. Why just a few? Because it’s so hard to come by in Ontario, Canada!
What’s your favourite Japanese whisky that you’ve ever had, and which one do you aspire to taste one day?
